From Pittsburgh to D.C. Cycling the Great Allegheny Passage and the C & O Canal Towpath

The Great Allegheny Passage, known as the GAP, is a crushed limestone cycling and hiking trail that runs 150 miles from Pittsburgh, PA, to Cumberland, MD. In Cumberland, the trail joins up with the C & O Canal Towpath, another crushed rock trail that continues 185 or so miles into Washington, D.C.

We drive to Pittsburgh with our bikes in tow to start the trail. We choose a combination of tent camping and hotel/AirBnb for the lodging on this trip so we carry quite a bit of equipment. Besides our two pannier bags each, we’re also pulling a small trailer. At the end of our ride in D.C. our plan is to bring our bikes back on Amtrak to Pittsburgh.

Funicular
We take a funicular ride to the hills overlooking Pittsburgh and the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers where they form the Ohio River.
Randyland
We visit Randyland, a found art exhibit Randy Gilson began in his home in 1995. Eclectic is sort of an understatement.
Van in PIttsburgh
We park our van for the week in a Pittsburgh parking garage, get our gear together, and head out for the trail.

Day 1: Pittsburgh to Connellsville, 56.8 miles

We have paved bike ways through to the outskirts of Pittsburgh and then the trail changes to a fine chat gravel, very similar to Missouri’s KATY Trail. We have a couple of normal trail detours, but nothing too unexpected. We learn, however, that until we reach the Eastern Continental Divide in about 125 miles, the trail has a slight uphill slope. Total miles to date 56.8.

Tent camping
Our first night on the trail is at a KOA campground outside of Connellsville.

Day 2: Connellsville to Meyersdale, 61.4 miles

The trail continues to slope upward, getting even steeper during today’s stretch. We gain over 1,200 feet of elevation on a trail that is considered relatively flat. Our campground for the night is at the Meyersdale Maple Festival Park which is, unfortunately, a couple of miles down a long hill from the trail. It’s unfortunate because that means tomorrow we have to climb back up to get to the trail. Total MTD 118.2.

Stopping for a welcome break on a hot day in Ohiopyle.
Meyersdale campground
Our campground is located near downtown Meyersdale but it is quiet enough at night.

Day 3: Meyersdale to Cumberland, 32.5 miles

After surviving the steep ascent out of Meyersdale, most of the climbing for the rest of the trip is over. About 10 miles along, we cross the Eastern Continental Divide and from here on out the trip is flat or downhill. We feel spoiled in Cumberland tonight because we’re staying in a hotel rather than camping. Total MTD 150.7.

Continental divide
As west to east riders we are happy to finally reach the Eastern Continental Divide because, after this point, it’s mostly downhill all the way to D.C.
Big Savage Tunnel
The Big Savage Tunnel, about 10 miles from Meyersdale, is almost 3,300 feet long. Although it is lit, we still have to be cautious and use our headlamps as we make our way through.
Gap and C & O trails
Cumberland, Maryland is where the GAP Trail ends and the C & O Canal Towpath begins.

Day 4: Start of the C & O Canal Towpath, Cumberland to Indigo Neck Campground, 47.3 miles

The C & O is a considerably rougher surface than the GAP’s. We find a lot more loose rocks and exposed tree roots cutting through the trail. As we approach the Paw Paw Tunnel we learn that it is closed so we end up pushing our bikes up a steep, rocky detour for about 3/4 mile. The downhill is also steep and scary as we try to keep from skidding. Total MTD 198.

School House Kitchen
We detour into Oldtown, MD for lunch at the School House Kitchen. The local public school has been converted into a restaurant and it is very popular among trail cyclists.
Top of detour
The smiles only come out AFTER we have pushed and shoved our way up to the top of the Paw Paw Tunnel detour.
Indian Neck Campground
We have a primitive, but beautiful camping spot for the night along the Potomac River.

Day 5: Indigo Neck to Williamsport, 40.5 miles

Because we wake up in a mild rain, we forgo cooking breakfast and just get started with Power Bars. We cycle in wooded areas within sight of the Potomac River the whole day. After packing our gear up in the rain this morning, we’re happy to be staying in an AirBnb tonight. Total MTD 238.5.

Weir on Potomac
We have good views of the Potomac most of the day.
Paw paw
Paw Paws are native to this area and are plentiful along the trail. They have a sort of custardy-banana flavor.

Day 6: Williamsport to Brunswick, 50.3 miles

Once again, other than a two-mile hilly detour, we follow the Potomac River most of the way to Brunswick. We get more rain, and our bikes and gear are starting to collect mud and grit. Along the way we go into Harpers Ferry to tour several Civil War historic sites. Total MTD 288.8.

Muddy trailer
Our gear, particularly our trailer full of camping supplies, is starting to show the dirt after a couple of days of riding gravel paths in the rain.
German Restaurant
In Shepherdstown, WV we take a detour off the trail to eat at a nice German restaurant. We are decidedly under dressed.
Kat and Craig
After crossing paths numerous times since we started the C & O, we have become friends with Craig and Kat (couple on the right).
Popsicles
Popsicles, courtesy of Craig, to celebrate our last night on the trail.

Day 7: Brunswick to Washington, D.C., 58.6 miles

The first 50 or so miles are relatively rural, as almost all the ride has been, so it’s a bit of a shock to see the beginnings of urban life as we enter the outskirts of D.C. The trail becomes paved the rest of the way, but it also is much busier. Total MTD 347.4.

Rainy breakfast
Since it’s raining when we break camp, we decide to head down the trail a few miles. We find a bike-friendly cafe to grab a meal.
DC Streets
Though we’re back in the big city, at least most of our route has dedicated bike lanes.
Stored bikes
Our handlebars that quickly turn and our pop off pedals come in handy as we have to park our bikes in our D.C. hotel room.
DC Train Station
We grab a bite as we wait for our train in Washington, D.C. to take us back to our van in Pittsburgh.
Trails map
Our route on the GAP Trail from Pittsburgh to Cumberland and then the C & O Canal Towpath on to D.C.

One response to “From Pittsburgh to D.C. Cycling the Great Allegheny Passage and the C & O Canal Towpath”

  1. kodowd3 Avatar

    What an amazing adventure and we’re so glad that we met you along the way! Wishing you so many future trips, around the world and around Kansas!

    Like

Leave a comment