Exploring Germany: Bikes, Brews, and Beautiful Trails

Day 1: Primda to Wernberg-Köblitz, 35.4 miles

About eight miles after leaving Primda, we’re back in Germany. We really enjoyed the Czech Republic, but the language barrier is very interesting. We speak just a smattering of German but in our last two Czech towns, we resort to German as a common language because the staff doesn’t speak English. Now that we’re in Germany there is more English around but we are still relying a bit on our not-so-good German. Our trip is gorgeous today although there are some very challenging hills as we arrive in Wernberg-Köblitz. Total miles to date 502.3.

We really did love the Czech Republic but crossing back over into Germany, the bike lanes immediately got better.

Hilly road — We were at that church at the top of the hill, then we went down into the valley and now we’re back up here.

Wernberg dinner — After a difficult ride, we enjoy a delicious dinner at our hotel.

Day 2: Wernberg-Köblitz to Hersbrück, 41,4 miles

Although we have a few hills and a pretty long ride, the rain holds off until the last four miles so we feel pretty fortunate. When you ride this many days, things are bound to go wrong. Today we learn that Kelly’s Bluetooth headset that we use to communicate while riding has decided to quit charging. It’s not the end of the world but we have gotten really used to being able to talk while we’re riding. We have a short ride to Nuremberg tomorrow so we’re hoping to find a replacement there. Total MTD 543.7.

Remains of the old city wall in Hersbrück. The town was an important stopping point on the so-called Golden Road between Nuremberg and Prague in the 1500s.

Two people having coffee — Afternoon breaks for coffee and cakes (kaffee und kuchen) are a regular thing in Germany and we try not to miss them too often.

Day 3: Hersbrück to Nürnberg, 20.5 miles

The temps have really dropped compared to the 90s of a week ago. After we check into our AirBnb in Nürnberg (Nuremberg) we come upon the “Altstadt Fest” (Old Town festival) so we participate with drinks and flammkuche, a sort of baked flatbread. It is nice to be outside without sweating. We spent a few days here about 10 years ago, but we don’t remember this being such a pretty city. Total MTD 564.2.

Hiking the Fünf Seidla Steig

While we’re in Nuremberg we want to hike a trail outside of the city called the “Fünf Seidla Steig,” (Foonf ZYD-lah SHTEYE-guh) which means the “Steep Trail of Five Small Beers.” Well, sort of. In Germany small beers are a half liter so they’re not that small, but the trail does have some steep spots. Our plan is complex, but ends up working very well.

We hike almost 10 miles to visit these five breweries, but to get to the starting point in Nuremberg, we have to take a subway and then a train. After hiking and visiting most of the breweries on the trail, we catch a bus back toward the beginning of the trail to visit the final two breweries, before catching the train back to Nuremberg, then the subway, then a final walk to our Airbnb. We’re beat but it is a lot of fun.

Walking directions for the hike were easy to find. — Walking directions for the hike are easy to find.

Prost! One of our five stops on the Fünf-Seidla-Steig.

Exploring Nuremberg: A Day of Sausages and Shopping

It is a day of eating, shopping, laundry, and sightseeing for our last day in Nuremberg. We find a place to get some traditional Nürnberger sausages for lunch, and when we walk in we realize it is the same place we had eaten with our sons, Joel and Conor, when we were all here 11 years ago. It is quite the coincidence. We also get our headset intercom situation sorted out thanks to Amazon Prime Germany.

plate of sausages — These little guys are the famous and delicious Nürnberger sausages.

laundrymat — Waschsalon (pronounced Vawsh Salon) sounds so much cooler than laundromat.

The story of ordering our new intercom headsets is too complicated to go into here but the bottom line is we were able to get them delivered to an Amazon locker 3 blocks from our Airbnb. — The story of ordering our new intercom headsets is too complicated to go into here, but the bottom line is we are able to get them delivered to an Amazon locker three blocks from our Airbnb.

Day 4: Nürnberg to Beilngries, 41.9 miles

To avoid some hills and backtracking, we decide to change our route to the south from Nuremberg to go via the town of Beilngries, and we’re really glad we did. These are some of the best bike trails and prettiest scenery we have on the trip. The town is located in a popular outdoor recreation area and is still busy even though it’s nearing the end of the tourist season. We also have our first significant tailwind so that is a definite plus. Total MTD 607.1.

It doesn't get much more German than pork, sauerkraut and potato dumplings. — Dinner doesn’t get much more German than pork, sauerkraut and potato dumplings, topped off with a beer.

Day 5: Beilngries to Regensberg, 56.5 miles

It’s been rainy in this part of Europe. We hear on the news that Prague has had some significant flooding only 10 days after we leave that beautiful city, and a deluge finally catches up with us today. Of course it happens to us on our longest ride of the trip. In the first 40 miles a slow but steady rain accumulates on the gravel paths, creating larger and larger puddles until the road is covered with deep pools we have no choice but to plow through. We are so grateful for fenders. After a wearying day we arrive in Regensburg (“Rain Castle” in German. Appropriate.) We have a shorter day tomorrow so we do some sightseeing before we head out of town. Total MTD 663.6.

row of bikes — Misery loves company? There were at least 15 other muddy bikes parked at our hotel in Regensburg.

Day 6: Regensberg to Neustadt an der Donau, 29.4 miles

It only takes one day of riding in a heavy rain to help you appreciate beautiful days like today. We ride from Regensburg to Neustadt an der Donau (which means Neustadt on the Danube). The names of our next 2 stays also end in “an der Donau” so that pretty much tells you what our path is going to be. Total trip miles 693.

Kelly sitting in doner kebab restaurant — Nearly every town of any size in Germany has a döner kebab place. We have never been to a bad one. We need more of these in the US.

Although we follow the Danube for miles we usually don’t get to cycle so close.

Day 7: Neustadt to Neuberg an der Donau, 34.3 miles

Kelly points out today that unless you ride against the wind or in the rain or uphill from time to time, it is hard to appreciate what a great ride we had with none of those things. We’re in Neuburg, another one of the “an der Donau” towns. It is bisected by the Danube and even has a 16th century castle looking over it. Total MTD 747.3.

Neuberg Castle — The castle overlooking the Danube and the city of Neuberg was originally constructed in the late 16th century. Today it has been restored and has several museum galleries.

Day 8: Neuberg an der Donau to Höchstädt, 41.5 miles

Tonight we arrive in Höchstädt. It’s another “an der Donau,” although the river is now actually a couple of miles away. We have another easy ride, and we only have one more full day of riding to go. Total MTD 768.8.

A beautiful field of mustard, or maybe rapeseed, on our route today.

Coffee and cake — Taking a break for coffee and cake, or some sort of sweets, is one of our favorite German past times.

Pumpkin stand — Is that PSL we smell? No, it’s just a roadside pumpkin and gourd stand (payment on the honor system.)

Day 9: Höchstädt to Ulm, 40.1 miles

Our last full ride is in the books. Our ride is about four miles more than we plan because we keep hitting detours. We think spring floods may have done a number on the trail closest to the Danube. Anyway, we’re in Ulm, home to the Minster, a Lutheran church with the highest steeple in the world. Tomorrow we have just a handful of miles to catch a bus to Augsburg. Total MTD 808.9.

The Ulm Minster has the highest steeple of any church in the world, 530 feet.

The spirals just keep going and going.

Day 10: Ulm to Augsburg, 5 miles

We have a three mile uphill ride to the bus station, an hour long bus ride and another two mile ride to our hotel in Augsburg. Döner kebab saves the day again as we arrive in town at an awkward time for a standard restaurant lunch. Total MTD 813.9.

Augusburg Dom — This is not the most elaborate cathedral we’re in but the Augsburg Dom (cathedral) is an impressive work of art. We sort of prefer its relative simplicity compared to some of the over-the-top cathedrals we visit.

Fresco — 16th (?) century fresco on the wall of the Augsburg Cathedral.

Bus station — Here we are waiting at the Ulm Flixbus station for our ride to Augsburg. Flixbus is a great way to travel with bikes around Europe. On most of the routes you can book a bike spot so you know in advance that there will be a place for your bike. Sometimes on trains it’s a little more hit and miss.

This is the route from Primda to Ulm on RideWithGPS with interactive map and elevations.

Krause Travels