Salamanca to León: A Route Through the Heart of Spain

Salamanca is a terrific surprise. There is so much history, it’s an ancient seat of learning, and it has an incredible, social food and drink atmosphere. This is one of our favorite places so far. The next part of our route takes us through a more arid region of Spain, generally known as Castile and León. It’s an area that was, at one time, part of the Roman Empire.

Salamanca Public Library — Originally built in the late 1500’s, the Casa de las Conchas (House of Shells) now serves as a public library in Salamanca.

The Plaza Mayor is the main central square of Salamanca. It is full of life from morning to night as are the streets that radiate off of it.

Day 1: Salamanca to Zamora, 50 miles

The town of Zamora is another pleasant surprise (we keep saying that about everywhere we go). Apparently it has the most Romanesque churches of any city in Europe—24, although we lose count at 6. Total trip miles since we left Lisbon 436.8.

We ride through lots of fields of this yellow flower, which we think is rapeseed (canola) but we’re not 100% sure.

Sycamore trees — These sycamore trees have been artistically pruned and actually spliced so that all the branches interlock. This is a courtyard in Zamora.

Day 2: Zamora to Benavente, 45.7 miles

For much of today we are “los peregrinos accidentales,” accidental pilgrims, as we follow part of the Camino de Santiago. We see several hikers and cyclists who are actually doing it and twice are wished, “buen Camino” (“have a good Camino”) by people on the side of the road. We feel like such posers. Total MTD 482.5.

Lunch in ditch — Another day, another roadside lunch in a ditch, this time on the way to Benavente.

Day 3: Benavente to León, 44.1 miles

We have modified our routes more than we expected on this trip. For the last 3 days we follow a road called the N-630, otherwise known as the Ruta de la Plata, or the Silver Route. It is a historic trade route in central Spain that runs north and south. More importantly for cyclists, it has low traffic and wide shoulders. Today we ride to León, our flattest ride yet. Total MTD 526.6.

Duct tape — After many days of riding things can start falling apart and loosening up. That’s why we always carry duct tape, which in Spanish is cinta Americana (American tape).

Vending machine — The Spanish love their ham, but this is the first time we’ve seen it in a vending machine. There are two types, as well as cheese.

Picadillos — The local specialty tapa in León is called picadillos. Basically it’s ground sausage in a spicy sauce served over baked potato cubes. Delicious!

Casa Botines is one of Gaudi’s early works. He is mostly known for his work in Barcelona and particularly the Sacrada Familia, but this building in León is also fascinating.

This is the route from Salamanca to León on RideWithGPS with interactive map and elevations.

Krause Travels