Coast to Coast Trail: Days 10-13

Kirkby-Stephen to Keld: 12.9 miles

One of the sites we hope to see on this part of the trail is a set of stone towers known as the Nine Standards. Fortunately, the weather lifts enough for us to make the climb. No one really knows who built them or what they’re for, but they’ve been around for centuries. The climb down from the Nine Standards ws boggy and also very rainy. Our stay in Keld officially marks the halfway point of the route. Total miles to date 102.7.

Boggy trail — The hike down from the Nine Standards is boggy and muddy.

Keld to Reeth: 13.3 miles

On this trip we have a company carrying a bag of extra clothes from one inn to the next. That means on the trail we only have to carry water, rain gear and snacks. After 11 days of hiking, we have developed a rhythm once we reach our destination. First, we grab the bags the van has delivered. Then we find our rooms and hit the showers. Then it’s having a cup of tea while we’re checking in on texts, email and Messenger. If there’s time, we may have a wander around town (if there is a town), then we head to the pub for dinner and a pint. If we’re not too tired we usually play a game or two of Pitch to end the evening. Total MTD 116 .

Room of unpacked clothes — By this point in the day our room is littered with the clothes we hiked in, our packs, boots, our unpacked “street” clothes, and socks drying on the radiators.

Playing Pitch is a rite of passage in the Krause family. Robin and his cousin have been playing since they were 10. In small towns, with very little going on past dinner, cards are a good way for us to unwind.

Reeth to Richmond: 11.7 miles

One of the best things about hiking the Coast to Coast is meeting and talking to all the people out here sharing the same experiences with you. On this hike, we have the pleasure of walking with Em, a solo hiker from Pennsylvania. We schedule another rest day in Richmond. It isn’t very long since our last day off, but Kirkby-Stephen and Richmond are the only towns of any size on the trail and they’re only a couple of days apart. The walk has gotten easier, partly because it’s not as steep but also because we’re finally getting in better shape! Total MTD 127.7.

Cream tea — We don’t always get to stop for afternoon tea, but today we hit the jackpot with cream teas.

Hiking with Em — We come across Em, a solo American hiker, and walk with her most of the way to Richmond.

Rest Day in Richmond

Richmond is a pleasant city for a rest day. We do a bit of laundry, but spend much of the day touring Richmond Castle, one of the best remaining Norman fortresses in the UK. On our way to dinner we get to watch a little cricket. We still have no idea how any of that works. It’s hard to believe but we only have 6 more days of hiking left. Next stop Danby-Wiske.

Chippy in Richmond — One thing Robin does not want to regret when he gets home from this trip is not eating enough fish and chips.

Krause Travels